Sea angling from a boat tips and tricks page started

FOLLOW THIS LINK: I have added some tips and tricks items to a new section on the site as many new anglers joining the boat fishing scene want answers to. There are lots more to add so it will build over time and there will be items such as what lures for what, what booms for what and any other tips that I use that I can pass on. They are my ideas and views and may not suit everyone so make your own decisions and if you find them of use then always let me no at any of the various email contact buttons.

Catching Cod & Pollock on the drift over reef and wrecks

Newbie Tips:

FISHING FOR COD WITH TWIN TAILS, SHADS, FAT TAIL WORMS: Use a seaboom tube type or strong wire type, attach your trace approx 1 – 1.5m so quite short and add your weight, use a cannon ball weight for drifting. Cod feed on the bottom so you need to stay in touch with them, drop your rig down and once you feel the bottom, reef or wreck then start a slow windup to about 10 turns and then drop down again. If you feel a take DON’T STOP, DON’T STRIKE, DON’T PUMP THE ROD let the fish take the lure and it will hook itself.

FISHING FOR POLLOCK WITH JELLY WORMS, EELS, SLIMLINE SHADS: use same technique as previous only increase your trace length, speak to your skipper he will advise you for the location and the numbers on the boat. Come up more turns up to 50 on your reel and note when you get a take how many turns, vary the speed of winding.

The key is: DON’T STOP, DON’T STRIKE, DON’T PUMP THE ROD We know it works as it’s what we do !!

Sea Fishing soft lures in bulk packs to save on shipping costs

New section at WWW.SEABOOMS.COM featuring a range of my lures in bulk packs and I have even added some Free jig heads to start you off. These have been put together to help reduce the ever increasing shipping costs being imposed upon us, take a look and I will be adding lots more so bookmark the pages or add to your favourites.

When and were to use metal sea booms by Mike Thrussell

I found this post on another forum and it backs up why steel booms have a good place in various types of sea angling. Written by a well known sea angling author Mike Thrussell. I have also just sent a selection of booms to another angling author again very well known and respected and has written for Sea Angler mags for many years so I am eagerly awaiting his revues too.

When and where to use Wire Booms: Written by Mike Thrussell

You rarely see wire booms for shore rigs in tackle shops nowadays, and it’s even rarer to read about them in the monthly magazines. Also, chatting to other anglers on the beach, you rarely see them in use either.

This surprises me as I always have made up rigs utilising wire booms in my rig wallets and always carry a few spare wire booms in my tackle box to make up additional rigs if need be.

Plastic booms are popular and are often talked about, but wire booms have their place in current fishing, and if you know when and where to use wire booms they’ll add more fish to your overall catch, plus save you from a few blank days too.

One advantage with a wire boom is that the wire being stiff and used in conjunction with short 6 to 9-inch hook snoods you have a non tangle rig for fishing in tight amongst the surf tables. Presenting a bait on a short hook snood means that it has limited movement and in bumpy sea conditions when the seabed is scoured by passing waves. Baits being constantly washed around in the surf are not easy for say a flatfish to pin down, but the short travel of a bait presented on a short hook snood gives the fish a more static bait target to hit. The easier it is for the fish to find the bait, the easier it is for them to eat it.

Vibration may also be a factor. There’s a theory that tide moving over different surfaces gives off different vibrations. Obviously there would be a big difference in the vibes given off between tide over plastic and tide over metal. This especially applies to the wire booms that are formed by twisting two or more wires together. This forming action creates ripples or hollows in the wire arm which, as the tide passes through, must create more vibration that fish could potentially pick up through their lateral lines.

The biggest advantage with wire booms is their weight increase over traditional plastic booms. When fishing plastic booms if you use a three boom rig it’s really only the boom closest to the lead weight that is truly on the seabed and presenting the bait there unless you fish a few feet of slack line between the rod tip and the lead weight. However the increase in weight with wire booms means that with just a slight amount of slack line between the rod tip and the lead all three booms will be fishing on the seabed, even at short range.

What advantage does this give then? Well if the bottom boom is the only one catching it suggests that the other two are presenting the baits too far up in the water column. This is especially so when targeting flatfish. By switching to a three boom rig with wire booms, their added weight can put all three baits in amongst the fish. In a decent surf table pattern fishing plastic booms to a slack line may not be enough to keep the booms close to the seabed, but the wire ones will.

Flounder: Wire booms can be effective for flat fish…

Also the weight of the wire boom means it’s less affected by a wave surge and therefore less prone to “lifting” in the water as the wave surge passes by. Plastic is much more buoyant and when fishing very small baits the boom lifts or cantilevers upwards as the surge passes through. In calm seas getting movement in to a bait can be an advantage and the plastic boom will score over the wire, but in rougher seas the weight of the boom is better as it keeps the bait closer to the seabed.

A problem that can occur with wire booms is that when a fish is hooked the hook snoods can twist up as the fish turns in the tide and fights. Small flatfish, whiting and rockling seem particularly prone to causing this, especially if they are hooked but the bite goes unnoticed for a few minutes but before you retrieve. However if you shop around you’ll find some wire booms available are sold with small swivels positioned inside the eye of the wire boom arm. These turn to the pressure of the spinning fish and massively reduce any potential twist in the snood line.

Swivels inside the boom stop tangles Swivels inside the boom eye massively reduce any potential twist in the snood line…

Just as with my plastic boom rigs I prefer to have the wire booms moveable by positioning them between beads and sliding stop knots or rubber rig stops. Sakuma also do excellent crimps with inner sleeves that allow the crimp to semi close and semi pressurise the line to make a moveable stop.

If you fish long beachcasters or a long European style rod, then you can make rigs with booms on up to 12-feet or more for close in fishing and this allows you to spread the booms well apart if the booms are moveable. This does two things, it covers a greater area of ground, but also widens the scent trail from the baits helping to pull fish in from a wider area even though the scent trail is weaker. This is a classic scratching tactic during the slow months of February, March and April.

There is another rig I use that I sussed from watching the American crank baits that use a boom with a spinner attached and prove so effective for pike, zander and perch in freshwater.

I set a single boom up and fix it between fixed crimps tight behind the lead weight link. To the booms eye attach 30-inches of 20lb clear Fluoro carbon. Slide on black bead, then a small plastic silver spoon, then 4 more alternate black and red beads. This is simply cast out in to the surf tables, or in to estuary creeks and channels, and slowly retrieved. This will catch flounders, plaice, school bass and lesser weevers amongst others.

Fixing the boom just above the weight Fix the boom just behind the lead link…

Flounder rig: Spoons and beads can be deadly in suft tables and estuaries…

The stiff wire boom in the above rig does not give as the spoon is retrieved, plus it dips in to the sand causing a fair amount of sand to be disturbed. This sand disturbance will pull in inquisitive fish that then see the moving bait and pounce. It’s a very simple way to fish, but is highly effective.

If you haven’t considered fishing wire boom rigs in the past, then reconsider because they give you a lot of advantages and in the right conditions will out fish standard and plastic boom rigs three to one.

Sea fishing tips and tricks mono traces tangle free

We are doing more and more ready to fish out of the bag lures and rigs with traces added, the only observations I have had is how to stop the traces tieing itself into knots when undoing them.

If you follow these instructions for any coiled mono traces you should quickly undo the trace ready to go fishing. This works for any coiled mono including shock leaders, long hook traces etc.

Don’t forget the hook protector sleeve if you leave it on you won’t catch fish !! Basic I know but I have done it myself and it hurts when you lose a take.

Sea booms upgrade to custom made rigs

Seabooms custom madeToday I have implemented an upgrade to my custom made booms in changing over to a new heat shrink tube that has an internal wall coating of heat activated waterproof adhesive.

There was nothing wrong with previous tubing used as the shrink ratio was tight enough for the tube to do it’s job and for it to remain in place. This upgrade of tube has only been just been made available in smaller quantities so it’s an upgrade worth making and material costs are only slightly higher so won’t affect the costs.

Expensive boat rods do they catch more fish ???

Two boat rods and two different costs but which one has caught more fish and hasn’t broken yet ?? The question is do expensive boat rods catch more fish, last longer, look better etc.etc. against an equally good looking high workmanship but low cost boat rod.

I put these two rods into my arsenal end of 2011 and fish with both last year and a couple of times so far this year and guess what yes the more expensive rod has caught fish nice Pollock and Cod but the cheapo X fibre Mako 12lb and 20lb class rods have done the business as far as quality fish, a 19lb+ Turbot, 19lb+ Pollock and plenty of Cod to over 20lb so the fish aren’t choosy on what rod they get caught by are they.

I have used the 20lb class Mako for wrecking and the 12lb for plaice/turbot fishing and I like it for virtue of the fact you can use them and at les than £25 quid you don’t worry about breaking it and so far they have taken the strain no problem. The Akita rods are just as nice to use in being very light and full of all the action you could want to feel good fish.

The point I am making cheap rods can perform just as well as the more expensive and still make fishing enjoyable and without worry too. As I get to sample and test all the rods I sell and go out of my way to try and break them so far apart from my own clumsy handling and managing to try and wind a swivel through a tip ring that is all I have managed so far.

I may be talking myself out of some extra profits and what I will say if you want to look the part buy the Akita if you’re on a budget buy the Mako or one of my other low cost rods, even the Akita at just under £70 quid it’s not a bank account buster is it.


Boat anglers need to take stock of kit

On my last boat trip I was on board first and below you will see All my kit and I have detailed how I am kitted out for any style of fishing from Wreck, Bassing, reef or banks fishing.

I sat back and watched the other 8 anglers arrive and load their kit onto the boat and I was amazed at the volumes of kit came aboard. Big boxes, rod holders with a stack of rods in there, floatation suits in bags, food hampers, bags of food, cool boxes, you think I’m joking Oh No !!

Apart from me two other anglers were traveling light and you could see they were geared for just that day and not every fishing trip they had planned for that year ! Not only had the deck space been greatly reduced due to all this kit you could see what was going to happen when we set out to sea and although the boat is reasonably dry when under way in a lumpy sea then a lot of spray will find it’s way into many of those boxes.

So with all that lot on board and 9 anglers we set off and the minute we left harbour we hit the chop and the first wave of spray crashed over the boat and there was a scurry to the back to get that kit as far forward. Problem was there was so many boxes and kit and there is only so much room up forward so some are going to get deluged and they did.

When we arrived at the fishing mark one guy opened his box up to see the top tray and kit all swimming in salt water and underneath wasn’t that much better, I watched as he took his lunch out too and that was now duck bread and soggy so he was going hungry all day too. His box wasn’t the only one and saw the same on a few others.

All that kit immersed into salt water before it even gets used and unless it’s all stainless then there is going to be a lot of work to dry and salvage many pounds worth of tackle. So it’s obvious these tackle boxes are only really for carrying kit and not keeping it dry in splash situations as these guys have found out.

So not only do we have all this gear on the boat there is also a number of pissed off anglers because their kit is all soggy ! when will they learn to get a bag that is waterproof and can carry just what you need for that day. Everyone knew they were signed up for wrecking and if weather turned bad then the banks would be the second option so kit up for drifting both.

Personally I could say to these guys you keep doing this and then come to me for replacement tackle but really I would prefer they re-think and travel light and save on damage limitation. So all this said how do I travel ?? well take a look at the image galleries and you will see how light you can go boat fishing and I have kit for anything from wrecking, bassing, turbot, plaice and even ling or conger hooks in my kit, so what more do you need.

You can see the style of bag and the amount of space it takes up and how portable it is, space is 45cm x 23cm x 30cm high were as the average small box is 45cm x 40cm x 40cm high and that is the smaller ones. Everything you see laid out is what any angler would need for a good days fishing, it also highlights the advantages of having ready to fish out of the bag tackle as all my lures, rigs, hooks are all ready to fish. Plus you can have a bag like that at your feet so tackle loss on wrecks can be resolved quickly.

I have three rods taped up with velcro and they will fish wrecks, reefs, banks and light for plaice, bream, bass large and small. There are three reels again setup for most styles of fishing with two sizes of braid and a spare just in case reel if both broke. The blue bag is a cold bag with ice packs for my food and bags in there for catches as I like to fillet the fish on the boats when I catch ! and I keep a cool box with large ice bottles in the car for the trip home.

So if I can travel light why can’t others ! just think of all that space saving on the boats and safe passage too getting around the boat as I have seen anglers stumble and fall over peoples kit and their own. Worth reviewing your kit don’t you think.


Wreck and reef drift fishing using a rotten bottom

Wreck and reef drifting using a rotten bottom rig setupTip for the newcomers to wreck and reef fishing on the drift and save on mass tackle loss or at least reduce the amount lost to the wrecks or jaggy reef.

I use just ordinary elastic bands in the sizes shown on this image and they give way when the weight is caught up. There are a number of options for the rotten bottom link which can be garden wire tie, lower breaking strain mono ie about 12lb but this method I use is very quick and simple you must check the bands and change between drifts for signs of wear or damage. BOOMS IN USE HERE the rig will work with all sizes of my booms and the tubebooms too,.

This example shows a mono rotten bottom so you can see two options.